French Fry Diary 101: The Pub, Pennsauken NJ

The Pub has been a fixture on the Airport Circle (or what’s left of it) for decades. I had stopped going there some time ago because of difficulties with the no smoking law in NJ restaurants. With that cleared up I finally went back. It was never a question of the food, only the air.

The Pub is a beautiful place, somewhat out of time. Great bar lounge, semi-ancient video games off in a hidden corner and a gigantic dining hall reminiscent of medieval times. A couple of the prime features of The Pub experience are the enormous help-yourself salad bar, and the hot fresh loaves of bread brought right to your table. Mostly though, The Pub is known for its open-air char-grilling. It’s a thrill to see the open flames billowing from the ovens and knowing that your steaks or other meats are being perfected there. Sorry, barbequing – it’s a guy thing.

I got my usual, the chopped steak, basically a glorified hamburger, but it made me very happy. The best chopped steak of its kind in my opinion, and it comes with a big thick wonderful onion ring with some delicious au jus ladled over it. But that’s not why you’re here – you’re here for the favorite fried food.

I ordered the steak fries I remember from my last visit some eight years ago, although it should be noted that The Pub also serves a terrific baked potato as well. Either choice is usually amazing. Unfortunately, it seems the steak fries are not what they once were, or at least weren’t this trip. They were kind of unspectacular, but tasty with the au ju. On previous visits, the steak fries were almost perfection.

I did notice something odd during dinner. Other guests who had ordered the crab cakes or the actual hamburger (as opposed to the fancy one I ordered) also got fries as a side, but they weren’t steak fries, they were regular cuts. It made me wonder how many different fries are available at The Pub, and why it doesn’t say anything about it on the menu.